Tuesday, September 02, 2008

Life Beneath the Lash

In the last poll, fully 75% of you reported smelling cheese while reading Wide Island. Were I a less trusting man, I'd say that was probably a lot of crap. Please remember, as you answer the newest poll in the sidebar, that market research is a serious business. Imagine living in a world where little boys and girls were abandoned to the mercy of fiends who lie to opinion researchers.

I'm depressed, not a novel sensation but one which I'd managed to sidestep for the few brief weeks of my summer holiday. But now it's all over, and I've gone from festivals with entertainment like this

and hanging around after dark with my little girl eating frozen treats like this

and lolling about like a drunken circus bear in clear, swift mountain streams as depicted here

to a return to this, the Senior Two teachers room.

This picture should relieve you once and for all of your image of Japanese Interiors as an endless round of clean, minimal constructs of bamboo, straw matting and a winsome teapot simmering alongside a seasonal flower arrangement. This is the real deal, brothers and sisters. Anyone up for a stiff drink?

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

"The old priest's eyes are bright."

I've never posted a student assignment here before. There have been some good ones. Personal favorites include the girl who finished her report on "Pirates of the Caribbean" with the confession, "I like a jolly roger," and another student who had the Greek gods tell Narcissus, "When you awake, you will fall in love with the first parson you see." Another girl shared a special memory of how, after she had won an English Recitation contest, "all my friends were crapping for me."

Generally, though, I don't think teachers should put forward student work for laughs. But one of my favorite students, a real "beat of a different drummer" seventeen year old, just handed in a spectacular report on her recent homestay in Australia. Her classmates all wrote more or less the same essay about cuddly koalas and cute boys on the Gold Coast and how they "persevered every day to make a treasured memory," a phrase that appeared so often that I think the homeroom teacher must have written it out for them on the blackboard. Then I came to this. Even the title is a trip.

No Attention, Please

I saw a lot of nervous friends.
There are many flying insects for everyday experience.
In my house, many ants are walking every day.
And, there are cockroaches, geckoes, and many flying insects.
I made friends with geckoes.
People are not afraid of them. I could not believe it.
Every student has their own computer.
Pronunciation in Australia is different from the Queen’s and the Americans.
I don’t know why my lunch is a sandwich.
There are many products made in China.
They are very low priced, but, indeed...
The young priest is odd.
The old priest’s eyes are bright.
No one can escape from him.
Everyone often eats mashed potato.
Rulers are long.
Water is expensive. And also juice.
Everyone eats a lot of apples which are not cut.
Young girls with dyed black-color hair are really into punk fashion.
We don’t have an under five-cent coin.
The color in the sky is vivid. The sea is lovely.
Meat is dripping blood. (I bought it in a shop)
People often use wrong Japanese word.
Ninjas and sushi don’t connect.
Rice salad is incomprehensible for Japanese.
Some children have Japanese games.
(Almost Chinese)
Some women show their underwear.
-----But when we look from the universe,
we have no frontiers.
And we may be able to be friends.

Tuesday, July 08, 2008

All Phone Calls are Obscene

Tomorrow the school smoking room will be converted to storage space, and there will be no more smoking anywhere on school grounds. Good news, it will make it easier to quit. But a lot went on in that room, and I'm reposting an entry from three years ago as a farewell:

The smoking room doesn’t offer much to a first glance, but it is a sanctuary for the weary and persecuted soldier of secondary education. There are no students, no teetering stacks of homework to be graded, not a trace of chalk in the still, poisoned air. Between each class half the men in the school stand shoulder to shoulder, silently handing round cigarettes. Lighters appear and are struck. 18 men inhale, nod appreciatively to one another, and release. The air instantly turns that perfect 20th century blue, the color only of television in strangers’ homes and dense tobacco smoke in narrow rooms.

The walls, last papered in the 80’s, are lustrous amber. A late history teacher’s still-life hangs near the door, a thick gloss of tar lending it the gravity of centuries. There is one machine for coffee and one for tea, both of which frequently work. There are two scruffy tables, across which two couches and six chairs face off. One couch is so soft that you are really, if we were to be absolutely honest, sitting on the floor. The other has boards beneath the thin cushions; sitting on it is like perching on a window ledge while the crowd below urges you on. The tables are set with four cut glass ashtrays, one smaller wooden affair with buxom native dancers carved around the rim, and one with beach sand and discolored seashells trapped in glass. The last two are souvenirs of K. Sensei’s Oahu wedding.

“My God, it sounds magnificent,” I hear you murmur among yourselves, and so it is but for one thing, a lone serpent fouling our Eden. The telephone.

It broods in the corner on a tall pedestal, its plastic-sheathed tail lashing menacingly, the sticky push-buttons and reeking mouthpiece making quiet threats. So long as that is all it does, we are content to overlook it, as we might ignore a fellow commuter fondling himself on a late-night streetcar.

But that is not all it does. It also rings. Or rather it bleats, it yawps, it sometimes quacks, in tones devised by some soulsick student of sonic warfare. At the sound, 18 men flinch, jitter a few inches across the scarred linoleum floor, and the game begins. The game, of course, is to decide who will answer the phone. In theory, the job belongs to whoever is nearest the thing when it commences its shrill gabbling. In practice, though, the room’s geometry allows several men to be equidistant from the phone, bringing a fascinating calculus into play. Who is junior? Who was the last call for, and how likely is it that this is a follow up to that call? Who is junior? Who last answered? Who is junior? Do we really think it’s for one of us? No one has called me on this phone, for instance, since November. Am I obliged to pick it up if I feel reasonably certain that the desired party is not present? What constitutes reasonable certainty? At any rate, isn’t someone here my junior? Eventually, often around the fourth ring, a determination is made and a trembling hand goes forth. The receiver is lifted, showering damp bits of bean cake from the last conversation.

“Yes, this is the smoking room. You want N. Sensei? He’s not here. No I don’t know where he is. That’s alright.”

Everyone relaxes. Everyone but the 24 year old PE teacher with the hunted look, who’s thinking, “Goddammit, I knew it wasn’t for me. Why the hell do I always have to answer the damn thing? What am I even doing in this room? I teach gym.” Worse, though, is when the recipient is present, but on the room’s far side. This requires a nimble hop over tables, a sliding step between chairs and around the corners of couches, a careful dance performed with 17 partners, each clutching a tiny, white-hot blowtorch in his hand. It’s an operation that demands rock-steady nerves and a relaxed outlook on the state of your necktie.

Our smoking room is also, during classes, a retreat for contemplation, for quiet downgrading of ambitions and spiritual certainties, and of course for deep, restful slumber. This is especially true for several older teachers.

I am thinking now of one man in particular, who is in his last year of teaching. He is old. He is peevish. He is tired, a special kind of fatigue reserved for slightly smelly, out-of-touch old guys who spend their days in girls’ schools. Don’t judge him too harshly. You’d be smelly too if you napped in our smoking room, or simply moved through it at a dead sprint. The consolations of teaching are lost to this man. He is waiting out the clock. His personal life is a disappointment too, perhaps. His only child, a daughter, lived under his roof until she was 36, when she very abruptly (it seemed to him) married a foreigner and moved to Sydney. Now he spends three minutes a week on the telephone with a five year old grandson who doesn’t speak Japanese. Lately he’s discovered his wife is stashing money away, in large sums, and he tries not to dwell on her possible plans for it. She’s stopped cooking his favorite meals, and no longer airs out the futons as often as he’d like. This time next year it will be just the two of them, together day and night, locked in a terminal staring contest across the tiny kitchen table.

I don’t anticipate much argument if I suggest that this guy needs the nap. And in fact it seems to do him a world of good. Not after he wakes up. He reverts to form more or less immediately upon waking. But if you were to watch his sleeping face, it would be clear he’s somewhere else entirely. In his father’s home, perhaps, in the mountainous north of the prefecture. It’s late autumn and he and his older brother, whom he loved very much, are sitting at the garden’s edge, shelling peas while they talk. A beautiful child runs out of the house, calling him grandfather in flawless Japanese. They play ball, the boy missing more than he catches but throwing well, very well. When the sun is down behind the pines, they enter the house, a newer house now, in the city, where his favorite dishes are laid on the broad table. Later he creeps into his own fresh, well beaten futon. His wife, young and bedwarm, stirs...

The phone rings. He reels up out of sleep with the kind of snort you mostly hear in zoos. He’s alone in the room, but it might be for him. Tottering around the tables to the pedestal where the thing lies mooing at him, he picks it up just as the other party disengages, and in the instant before the dial tone comes up he hears the chill whispering of a million kilometers of dead line.

The class bell. The tumbling entry of half the men in the school. The dance, as the saying goes, begins anew. Cigarettes out, the flare of lighters, the hiss of intake, the nod, the release. No one looks at the phone.

Friday, July 04, 2008

"Littlefoot, 32" made into a Wordle


Charles Wright's poem, run through Wordle. Thanks to Paul over at the Get Hiroshima blog for pointing out the best timewaster I've seen in weeks. Click to see at full size. Pretty cool.

Wednesday, July 02, 2008

The Firefly Tribe

In the evening the shadowed verandas of the large apartment block near my house are lit by the orange embers of cigarettes. They rise and fall, tracing wild arcs through the air to emphasize a thought, each inhalation marked by the flaring and dimming of the little glow. Sometimes there are ten or more at once, for the most part completely unaware of each other. It’s a common enough scene across the country that the Japanese have invented a wonderful word for it: hotaruzoku, the firefly tribe, smokers who choose or are exiled by families to the balconies. Sometimes the tribe has a voice as well, one hacking cough sounding in the darkness to be answered by another, slightly deeper. If it were blues or church singing it would be a beautiful call and response, but the effect is more like a flock of ill wading birds trying to find one another in the midst of a swamp fire.

I know all this because the hotaruzoku is one of the very few Japanese tribes I’ve gained full access to, and by far the easiest. It’s also the entirety of my interaction with those neighbors in the apartment block. There in the gloaming, I gaze thoughtfully through the intervening space at their indistinct outlines and they gaze thoughtfully back at me. Then we turn and go inside. And that is all. I’ll leave you now. Through the open window, my people are calling to me.

Tuesday, July 01, 2008

...and a time to cast away

I think my long term relationship with National Public Radio is coasting to an end. It’s time. I think we hit a new low this morning when “Wait, Wait, Don’t Tell Me” used the Black Eyed Peas as a musical interlude, and the damned thing got stuck in my head. For obvious reasons, it’s ill-advised for a 140 kilo bald guy in his early forties to be strolling down the halls of an all-girls high school obliviously crooning, “My hump, my hump, my hump, ha! My lovely lady lumps. Check it out!” in a breathy falsetto, even if no one understands what he’s saying.

Unfortunately, that’s all I really took away from NPR this morning. That and the weather forecast for Minneapolis, nearly 9,000 kilometers away. I no longer care who gets Carl Kasell’s voice on his home answering machine. The Car Talk guys sound increasingly bizarre, though I freely concede that’s entirely my problem. The Driveway Moments are blending into one prolonged howl of bathos, and the promise of never hearing David Sedaris talk about his mother again fills me with a sense of hushed and happy exultation.

Why NPR, anyway? It’s just a sort of sonic security blanket. Listening over the internet, I could be listening to any English programming in the world. The BBC, or Australian Broadcasting, both of which are great by the way. Or why not go farther afield? Surely there’s something interesting coming out of South Africa, or New Zealand, or even Belize or Guyana. I always tell my students English is the key to a thousand doors, for which I suffer a great deal of eye-rolling, and here I am suckling at the teat of Liberal America. Well, no more! Goodbye, Peter, Karl and company. So long, Terry. Tom and Ray, old friends, I bid you adieu. And Sylvia Poggioli, you sorceress, how you inflame and unhinge me! But we can’t continue like this. We just can’t.

Tuesday, April 08, 2008

Japan Sings the Turkish National Anthem


Not Japan but a group of Japanese singers. This is one of four similar films promoting the film project Pangea Day, which looks like it could be pretty interesting. From the website:
What is Pangea Day?
Pangea Day is a global event bringing the world together through film. On May 10, 2008, live events in Cairo, Kigali, London, Los Angeles, Mumbai, and Rio de Janeiro will be linked by satellite to produce a program of powerful films, live music and visionary speakers. The program will be broadcast live to millions of people worldwide through the internet, television, and mobile phones.

Who started Pangea Day?
Pangea Day was created by award-winning documentary filmmaker Jehane Noujaim in collaboration with the TED Conference after she won the prestigious TED Prize, which granted her a wish to change the world. Together, Jehane, TED, and the Pangea Day team — led by Executive Director Delia Cohen — have created Pangea Day to harness the power of film to enhance empathy, compassion, and peace.

Of course, if that doesn't do it for you, we can always listen to Smoke on the Water again. I love the audience's reaction when they recognize the tune.

Friday, April 04, 2008

Wanted: One Fluff Suit, color unimportant

I really hope one of you crafty Martha S. types can help me realize a vision. I went outside with my coffee this morning just in time to stand witness to a border skirmish between several sparrows. They raised their feathers when they attacked, looking like angry little globes of eiderdown with beaks sticking out. It was damned impressive.

Wishing to achieve the same effect, I have a simple request. Could one of you assemble a shirt, or perhaps a turtleneck bodysuit, with some sort of mechanism allowing me to instantly puff up threateningly whenever I’m feeling peeved? I’m not sure how you’d do it. Maybe a pull cord, or something that causes the “feathers” to rise when I lift my arms menacingly above my head. I’ll leave the engineering of the thing to you. I’m just an idea man.

One thing, though. Instead of real feathers, I’d like something stiff, something that will make a satisfyingly sinister noise. Bamboo, I think, or thin slats of polished bone, something to rattle as I jiggle grimly in my displeasure. Can any of you manage it? Let me know.

“No, I didn’t do my homework.”

Fwoomp! Clackety-clackety-clack-clackety

“Moushiwake arimasen!  We're out of honey-glazed today.”

Fwoomp! Clackety-clackety-clack-clackety

“Daddy, this is my fiancĂ©, Daisuke.  He's a drummer!”

Fwoomp! Clackety-clackety-clack-clackety hissssssssssssssss

Monday, March 31, 2008

Scott Yano, an appreciation


The name of Scott Yano will, of course, be familiar to most of my readers. To some of you, he is a dynamic and innovative instructor of English. To others, he may most readily come to mind as co-translator of that seminal volume of East Asian studies, “The Women of the Heian Night.” Still others among you will know him best as a frighteningly persuasive after-hours rhetorician, or as a dashing figure astride his skateboard, slaloming dauntlessly through the chill air of morning. For at least two of you, he is simply and forever Daddy. Orator, Canadian, sportsman and bard. Prettyboy, pundit, philatelist and fiend. Well, all right then, not a philatelist, not really. Yet if I were a postage stamp, I do not know the man I should avoid so soon as that spare Yano.

At any rate, the pressing question isn’t, “Who is Scott Yano?” No, friends, the question I put to you tonight is, “Who isn’t Scott Yano?” I’m not. And neither are you, unless you actually are Scott Yano, in which case I say to you Hi Scott, thanks for dropping by.

But did you know Scott Yano can rock and roll? Oh yes…


Scott is back in Hiroshima after an absence of several years, and on Saturday night he took the stage at Shelter 69 in front of his (locally) legendary combo AKA Toe Jam. Rendered all the more imposing by the addition of genuine leather cowboy boots, Yano raised high his mighty axe and battered the cowering night with impudent musical sass. Or something very like that. Bending to his lordly will such standards as Down By the River, Peace Love and Understanding, Brown Eyed Girl and that one song by the Doors, the merciless force of his performance sucked the wind from the lungs of hapless passers-by, leaving them gasping on their knees under the terrifying yet strangely agreeable rock ’n roll onslaught.

Yes. Good to see you back in town, Scott. Now get out before the swooning cows stop giving milk, you delirious six-string sorcerer. To those of you who missed the show, I offer this rare 1991 recording, in which Scott appears as the last voice, playing Pied Piper to a group of Canadian graduate students in a hard-driving restatement of Shakespeare’s Sonnet 73.

Friday, March 28, 2008

Back from Brisbane


Time slips by, doesn't it? I've been in Australia, and not able to keep up with this.

What I love most about Australia, aside from Coopers Sparkling Ale and sausage rolls, is the total lack of ceremony. It’s incredibly refreshing coming from Japan. My second morning I got into a cab to come to work and the guy behind the wheel had no idea where he was. Every two minutes he’d pull over to the curb, haul out a map and say things like, “Aw shit yeah, there’s the bugger. But how the Christ are we meant to get over there?” After four or five of these little stops, he just turned around and said, “Fuck, mate, I reckon we’d be better off getting out and walking. HAHAHAHAHA!!” I finally got to school about twenty minutes after my students had already gone into class.

Once again I stayed in the beautiful Garden City Motor Inn in Upper Mt. Gravatt, just south of Brisbane proper. If you look carefully you should just be able to see the rainbow coming gently to rest on the top of the sign. I go down every two years with a group of 35 to 40 of my high school girls. I’m not absolutely certain why I need to be there, since the girls are living with home-stay families and have two very competent English teachers during their school hours. But who’s complaining? Brisbane is a nice town. And Coopers Sparkling Ale is beautiful.

Last time I was down my little blog died. The girls attend a very nice school, the largest private school in Queensland I’m told, but the computer system blocks access to a lot of sites and getting wireless access outside of the school is a much bigger pain in the ass than it should be. After a month of not being able to write anything, I lost all momentum. I’m hoping to avoid that this time.

This was my motel room. It wasn't the nicest in the world, but it was clean, with a little kitchen and a complete set of phone books, and it was affordable for a month. The couple running the joint are very nice. And one of the maids, understandably, fell deeply in love with me and left extra Anzac biscuits whenever she cleaned the room. Excellent. One look at me and she thought, "Baked goods." Feminine intuition performs another quiet little miracle.

I really do love Australia. It's not an easy place to come back from. The people are friendly, the landscape is stunning, there are English language bookstores and yes, they even have Coopers Sparkling Ale. Anyone want to go start a commune with me?

Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Weekly Poetry 1

Because what else is a guy supposed to do on a Tuesday?

Peg, Remembering

The old girl mostly waits now, passing
the mornings in a large chair by the stove.
In her lap her hands twist like cold mice,
the right hand’s fingers spelling secrets
in the palm of the left.

All day her one visitor the wind
will skylark down the sidewalk like
a restless crowd of boys, whistle up
the steps to fling yellow armloads
of leaves at the door, rattle the latch
and gad away west through the trees.

Above the little town, early snow
comes in a shy dance along the crest
of Fall Mountain. Now in the shadows
her eyes rise again and again to the
painting of Spain, in the place he hung it,
ruddy hills thronged like pilgrims pressing
forward to kiss the blue lace hem of the sea.
“The world,” she breathes, and all the wakened world
comes tumbling in, a wonder
blinking in its queer dress at her feet.


- Maethelwine

Monday, February 18, 2008

Mr. Ishihara, meet Mr. Freud

Tokyo Mayor Shintaro Ishihara, Japan's most quotable politician, continues to delight crowds the world over.

Still downplaying his 2004 claim it's impossible to count in French, the 75-year old Mayor recently told the Agence France-Presse, "I love France. I once had a French girlfriend. She gave me a pistol as a souvenir but now it's too old to be of any use." Ahem.

To demonstrate, Ishihara tackled the young reporter, placed the pistol in question to her head, and pulled hard on the trigger three times. As promised, the Mayor's weapon failed to discharge. He then performed a marvelous series of handsprings into the studio audience and led them all in a buoyant rendition of "La Vie En Rose."

Saturday, February 16, 2008

T'was in the Darkest Depths of Mordor...

Too good to be true, but there it is, right on the online pages of the Pakistan News Service.

Waziristan is home to the Wazir tribes, a rugged, mountainous area along the Afghan-Pakistan border where the conservative tribesmen have lived, feuded, and resisted outside interference for centuries. More recently, Waziristan has become the favored fallback position for Taliban escaping Afghanistan. They've killed as many as 200 local leaders in ongoing efforts to consolidate their own fledgling power in the area. Not surprisingly, Waziristan is also widely regarded as the most likely hiding place for Osama bin Laden and other senior members of the Merry Men.

All of which led someone on the staff of the Paktribune website to make a little joke. A map of Waziristan accompanies a small story on recent military operations against "a large number of miscreants" gathering near Lahda Fort. But look closer at the map. I've ripped it and put it here, because I can't believe it will be allowed to stay up very long.


It's a small map, including all the prominent features of Waziristan. The mountains of Ered Lithui, the Plateau of Gorgoroth, Barad-dur and the Sea of Nurnen.   And in the far northwest, the Dead Marshes, where Frodo and Sam gazed on the faces of the fallen Elves and Men of the Battle of Dagorlad.   Waziristan looks a great deal like Mordor.

Wouldn't it be great to work at a news outlet where you could get away with this?  Be sure to leave a comment at the bottom of the article.  I doubt it will be online much longer.  

Found this through registan.net, over on the sidebar, the best blog I know on Central Asia.

Thursday, February 14, 2008

5 things to tell a child who's lost a tooth.

Tooth loss offers a wonderful opportunity to lie to your child.  Ema lost her first tooth last night.  She's not thrilled to be the first kid in her kindergarten class to lose a tooth, despite the fact that the Tooth Mouse will be bringing her a gift.  In fact, the lurid specter of the Tooth Mouse may only have worsened things.  The best way to help children through these early traumas is to leave them so bewildered and uncertain that actual problems, like the shedding of milk teeth, recede into the background.  I offer a few suggestions, with absolute faith in your ability to do better.  Just close your eyes, and let the winds of deceit blow through you.


  1. "I'll make you a new tooth, a better tooth, a wooden tooth."
  2. "Uh oh, your left ear's gone a bit wobbly too."
  3. "Sleep with your mouth shut so the Mouse gets the right one."
  4. "Look, the new one's coming in already!  What a great color!"
  5. "With less weight, you should run faster.  Go on.  Run."

Monday, February 04, 2008

Setsubun

I have a lot of writing to do over the next several days, so I may not put anything here until Thursday.

Busy weekend. Sunday, especially, with Ema's school festival in the morning, then the Setsubun demon-banishing at Sumiyoshi Shrine, dinner out with the whole family and finally Setsubun at home.

I wrote about Setsubun here two years ago, but I wasn't entirely fair. It can be a lot of fun, and so I was shocked last night to find that I've been fired from the job of demon. The father is really supposed to be the demon, but Ema said that I was "too scary" last year and consequently mommy would be wearing the mask this year. Fair? No, but on the upside I got to hurl beans at my wife, and I didn't hold anything back. Still, to be thoughtlessly dismissed at the last moment from a role you've really dug deep and prepared for, well no artist likes to be taken so lightly.

Friday night I went for curry with a group of friends and met a guy who's a pro-wrestler in his spare time. He tried to convince me that I ought to tag-team with another friend. We could style ourselves the Rumblejacks, and beat our opponents with axe handles. I'm not really interested, but maybe if I went for it and did well, Ema would let me have the demon mask back.

Maybe.